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SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Building organ consoles for use with Hauptwerk, adding MIDI to existing consoles, obtaining parts, ...

Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby jkinkennon » Fri Oct 23, 2015 12:45 pm

SAMS is Stop Action Magnet(s) I believe though I'm never positive I have it right. Don't know the other.
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Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby NickNelson » Fri Oct 23, 2015 1:18 pm

MBBS is a commercial MIDI encoder module from midi-hardware.com

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Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby TomBentley » Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:51 pm

No problem.

MBBS: This is a midi encoder board produced by Roman Sowa, in Poland (see Midihardware.com for his web site.). I have had great success using his boards in my midi conversion and his boards are small in size and reasonable in price, in my humble opinion (IMHO). He ships to US with no problems, but it does take a bit longer to receive since mail system is slower in Poland that we are used to here in the US but I have been impressed with his products and he is a delight to work with. He makes a wide range of products pertinent to the conversion of organs for use with Hauptwerk.

SAMS: Stop Action Magnets (I had trouble with that one at first too) ha ha. It is a style of organ stop which physically automatically moves the stop tabs up and down (off an on) or the physical draw nobs automatically in and out (off and on) when a piston activates a pre-set combination.

Hope that helps.

Tom
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Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby TomBentley » Fri Oct 23, 2015 4:52 pm

Looks like we all got here at the same time ha ha.

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Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby TomBentley » Sat Nov 18, 2017 9:47 am

Well here it is at least a year later but I'm finally getting the time to deal with these TABs. I've completely removed the stop rail and am in the process of removing each tab from it. I want to "clean up" these and use them as simple stop on stop off (no automatic moving of the tabs to up or down position). I have managed to get an arduino up and running Teensy ++ 2 and successful code to execute program change to HW to turn a stop on or turn it off. After reading the post about the wiper tab on the post causing potential problems because of the coils be involved, I clipped any wires the had anything to do with them -- actually i stripped all of the existing wire out of the tab and started from there. It works just fine. But I would still like to get those actual coils out of the frame but can't seem to manage that.

How the heck do you get those things physically out of there and just leave the tab mechanism inside the frame? Any suggestions?

Thanks,

Tom
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Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby johnh » Sat Nov 18, 2017 4:55 pm

TomBentley wrote:How the heck do you get those things physically out of there and just leave the tab mechanism inside the frame? Any suggestions?


On the SAMs I'm familiar with the coils are essentially rivetted to the frame. The end of the coil armature passes through the frame and is then pressed or peened over as you would a rivet. You;d have to drill or otherwise machine off the head of the rivet where it protrudes through the frame. Depending on the 'angle' of the tabs it may be tricky to access one of them.

It might be easier to just snip the fine wires leading to the coil and leave them in place.

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Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby engrssc » Sat Nov 18, 2017 5:09 pm

johnh wrote:It might be easier to just snip the fine wires leading to the coil and leave them in place.


As John mentioned, I would be concerned also about doing damage to the stop tab frame by attempting to remove the coils.. The coils won't bother the operation if left in place..

Rgds,
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Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby TomBentley » Sat Nov 18, 2017 10:50 pm

Thanks guys! It didn't seem to bother with their actual function but in the interest of having it "clean" I wanted to just neaten it up a bit but I think i will take your advice and just leave them in place. When I stripped the wiring I did make sure to snip off all of the regular wires on expects and also those tiny tiny wires to the coils so they shouldn't cause a problem.

Thanks,

Tom

PS if anyone feels like another question -- I am thinking when I get ready to add more and more stops, I could run the signal to each pin as the input to Teensy and connect all the grounds to a common bus, cept I don't really quite understand how a common bus wire is created. From what I've taken apart it appears to be just a length of larger gauge wire strung between screws to hold it up with all the stop commons attaching as they go along. i would assume then there would be just one wire from this common which would attach to the ground pin on the Teensy and then I'd only have to run signal wires to the pins and each stop would be "grounded" to the common and I'd be off and running. Correct?
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Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby engrssc » Sat Nov 18, 2017 11:03 pm

FYI, Some encoders do connect to the electrical "ground" of the organ. Others to a "common". Ground and common may or may not be the same point (connection) from an electrical point of view.

Rgds,
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Re: SAMS vs. Tilt Tabs

Postby TomBentley » Sun Nov 19, 2017 9:50 am

I see. I'm using a Teensy++ 2 and on a breadboard to prototype this project when I connect from the ground pin to the bottom rail on the breadboard (-) it seems that all the holes on that rail indicate ground, so i think 1 wire from the Teensy ground pin and the ground wire on each stop attached to it, it would work. It certainly would be easy to test it out anyway. What has always confused me is when I see and hear the word ground bus wire or common, I'm not understanding where a ground wire stops or starts -- it just always appears as one wire in the end (i.e. like a pedalboard, with one wire being the common) and then as each pedal is pressed continuity is established between 1 pedal and the common, and when is all put together that 1 common wire goes to the ground pin on an encoder and the other 32 go to the numbered pins. I'm probably not being very clear as when it relates to electrical signals and such I am not knowledgeable as to the appropriate terminology used. In my head "connected to common or ground" means the thing that all switches have in common is perhaps the bottom wire on the switch needing to be grounded, and the "identity" of the switch would the pin on the encoder that the other wire would be attached to.

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