Wurlitzer Organ - Series 20 MIDIfication ???

Hello, Hauptwerk community,

Does anyone have any experience MIDIfying a 1940s vintage Wurlitzer Series 20 console for use with Hauptwerk? There's one in my area for sale, and I want to upgrade to an AGO-spec-like console. I guess my main concern is: are the key and pedal contacts sufficient quality to handle low voltage digital signals from MIDIbox modules with a minimum of contact bounce and noise?

Also, more generally speaking, does anyone have an educated opinion of which used analog 2 or 3 manual AGO consoles, e.g. Allen, Rogers, etc., of 1960s or 70s vintage, would be the most "cost-effective" and practical to buy for MIDIfying?

Thank you all for any feedback you can offer.

Allen consoles of the earliest 70's vintage, that is the first MOS organs, and then throughout
all have diodes in series with the contacts. These were used to assure only that the correct polarity
of the keying signal was sensed. I found it impossible, for me anyway, to remove them! They
are at the immediate end of the wooden key, and very difficult to access; in fact there are two
diodes which must be removed to be compatible with most MIDI keying systems. You might
succeed. Allen wiring seemed to require negative going polarity to key; all MIDI key sensing
of which I am aware requires positive.

I. in desperation, replaced my Allen manuals with the Classic Organ Works CMK manuals. I
find these manuals have an even better feel/touch than my old Allen ones. The Allen
pedal board magnet/reed switch as it comes on these consoles is just fine for MIDI
gadget keying. Of course, all the console interior original wiring harness must be replaced.
That is no problem for MIDI keying as all that requires is the MIDI cables to your MIDI
input device to the computer you will use. Again. this is all trivial when using the Classic
Organ Works hardware.

Hello, Hauptwerk community,

Does anyone have any experience MIDIfying a 1940s vintage Wurlitzer Series 20 console for use with Hauptwerk? There's one in my area for sale, and I want to upgrade to an AGO-spec-like console. I guess my main concern is: are the key and pedal contacts sufficient quality to handle low voltage digital signals from MIDIbox modules with a minimum of contact bounce and noise?

Also, more generally speaking, does anyone have an educated opinion of which used analog 2 or 3 manual AGO consoles, e.g. Allen, Rogers, etc., of 1960s or 70s vintage, would be the most "cost-effective" and practical to buy for MIDIfying?

Thank you all for any feedback you can offer.

Philip,

The pedal and key contracts should not present a serious problem. Any worn keying wires could be replaced relatively inexpensively. See http://www.arndtorgansupply.com/products.htm.

If you intend to use SAM stop controls, be prepared to spend about $40 per switch for a Syndyne SAM and engraved stop key. Also, if you want to proceed in this direction, choose a serious MIDI product such as the uMIDI from Artisan. http://www.artisanorgans.com/.

Joe Hardy

Hi Philip,
I have successfully midified a late 1950s Wurlitzer model 4462 console (using MidiBoutique boards). The Wurlitzer key contacts are gold plated and thus suitable for low voltage midi. Stop Switches are of rocker style into which I driilled a 3mm hole and hot melt glued LED indicators, and then added a strip of 3mm x 10mm MDF under the rear edge of the rocker switches to prevent them from engaging in the "on" position. Thus when pressed they always return to "off" leaving the LED to indicate the stop condition. The hard part of midifying was deciding to strip the Wurlitzer of all its electronics before starting. I once loved that organ. The rebirthing has changed a museum piece (read landfill) into a superb instrument (thank you Martin). For your purposes I think it is all about gold plated key contacts (which for me have worked flawlessly over four years).

Cooky

Philip,

Perhaps this will interest you: http://www.youtube.com/user/glendwr

Joe

I am right in the middle of a Wurlitzer Model 20 conversion. I gutted it completely but saved the "unification harnesses" attached to the keyboards. I used these for my contacts. Keyboards work fine on 10v current. Still have to finish pedals. Will be using the same method. I haven't tackled the stop tabs yet. Also plan to replace swell and crescendo pedals with new ones. I will try to get photos of my project uploaded some day... and post a link.